2012 10 Canakkale, Turkey, a set on Flickr.
Click the link to see 60 photos from our time in Canakkale, Turkey, visiting also Troy and Gallipoli.Tuesday, 9 October 2012
Canakkale, Gallipoli and Troy
Our ferry from Istanbul was very comfortable indeed. It even had a play area and Cafe Nero on board which, given how far our Wellington coffee standards have slipped in the past six years (soon to be regained!) was a treat. Two hours later we were across the Sea of Marmara in Bandirma hunting for a bus to take us the remaining 2.5 hours to Canakkale. With a bit of help from friendly locals, we were at the ticket office and on a minibus to the main bus terminal in no time.
Buses are not our favourite mode of transport, especially over longer distances with Eleanor and Leo, but the inter-city ones here are great; air conditioned coaches with airline-style seats, a seat-back TV screening loads of channels including Cartoon Network and children's movies in Turkish (this doesn't bother Eleanor and Leo who in London often watched Peppa Pig in Welsh; 'but I love Welsh'!) and a man who brings around tea, coffee, juice and snacks. So far, we have found Turkey very straightforward to navigate on public transport.
Canakkale is a lovely relaxed seaside city, across from the Gallipoli Peninsula. We all liked it instantly and it has become one of our favourite stops of the trip so far.
There were plenty of street cats for Eleanor and Leo to bother from a distance (the distinction we have created is 'house cats' are cared for so you can pat them, but 'street cats' might make you sick so you can't), a good playground and a pleasant waterfront with plenty of restaurants as well as the wooden horse from the 2004 movie Troy.
We decided the easiest way to see Gallipoli was on a tour, so booked it, despite reservations about distracting others in the group. It worked out just fine. Eleanor and Leo enjoyed the boat ride to Eceabat and were remarkably good on the bus. The others on the tour were nice people and very patient. Adrian and I both missed portions of the guide's commentary as we played/supervised our way around the locations, but enjoyed the day hugely.
It was a moving experience to see the now peaceful place where so many New Zealanders and Australians were lost and to visit some of the memorials and cemeteries. The landing point was absolute madness with huge cliffs pretty much straight off the beach. While it would be a special experience to be at an ANZAC day service there, we enjoyed seeing it a a quieter time. The Turks are already preparing for the influx of visitors to mark the 100th anniversary of the landings in 2015.
Our other day trip from Canakkale was to Troy. We debated whether to go at all as we'd heard the ruins are very ruined and that the most interesting thing is the giant replica wooden horse (D, you were spot on with your description - it is in large part a pile of rocks!), but having watched the movie the night before and for reasons of general historical interest (as well as having few alternatives), we decided we couldn't be in the area and not stop by.
In the end, we had a great morning. The ruins are undeveloped, yet interesting. They have discovered remains of buildings as far back as Troy 1 (of nine era of Troy), which was constructed in about 2500 BC. As we had the place virtually to ourselves, Eleanor and Leo could explore at their own pace, although we did have to be careful as there are few fences and the odd rotten wooden board on the pathways. Climbing into the horse was a highlight, as were clambering over rocks and finding a stream full of frogs. It was definitely worth going in the morning; as we had our lunch, we watched about 15 tour buses roll into the car park. Without the solitude it wouldn't have been nearly as rewarding a visit.
After our return, and another trip to the playground including a bounce on the nearby trampolines, we watched the sun set over the Gallipoli Peninsula while eating dinner on the waterfront and packed up for the following day's 4.5 hour bus journey to Bergama.
Buses are not our favourite mode of transport, especially over longer distances with Eleanor and Leo, but the inter-city ones here are great; air conditioned coaches with airline-style seats, a seat-back TV screening loads of channels including Cartoon Network and children's movies in Turkish (this doesn't bother Eleanor and Leo who in London often watched Peppa Pig in Welsh; 'but I love Welsh'!) and a man who brings around tea, coffee, juice and snacks. So far, we have found Turkey very straightforward to navigate on public transport.
Canakkale is a lovely relaxed seaside city, across from the Gallipoli Peninsula. We all liked it instantly and it has become one of our favourite stops of the trip so far.
There were plenty of street cats for Eleanor and Leo to bother from a distance (the distinction we have created is 'house cats' are cared for so you can pat them, but 'street cats' might make you sick so you can't), a good playground and a pleasant waterfront with plenty of restaurants as well as the wooden horse from the 2004 movie Troy.
We decided the easiest way to see Gallipoli was on a tour, so booked it, despite reservations about distracting others in the group. It worked out just fine. Eleanor and Leo enjoyed the boat ride to Eceabat and were remarkably good on the bus. The others on the tour were nice people and very patient. Adrian and I both missed portions of the guide's commentary as we played/supervised our way around the locations, but enjoyed the day hugely.
It was a moving experience to see the now peaceful place where so many New Zealanders and Australians were lost and to visit some of the memorials and cemeteries. The landing point was absolute madness with huge cliffs pretty much straight off the beach. While it would be a special experience to be at an ANZAC day service there, we enjoyed seeing it a a quieter time. The Turks are already preparing for the influx of visitors to mark the 100th anniversary of the landings in 2015.
Our other day trip from Canakkale was to Troy. We debated whether to go at all as we'd heard the ruins are very ruined and that the most interesting thing is the giant replica wooden horse (D, you were spot on with your description - it is in large part a pile of rocks!), but having watched the movie the night before and for reasons of general historical interest (as well as having few alternatives), we decided we couldn't be in the area and not stop by.
In the end, we had a great morning. The ruins are undeveloped, yet interesting. They have discovered remains of buildings as far back as Troy 1 (of nine era of Troy), which was constructed in about 2500 BC. As we had the place virtually to ourselves, Eleanor and Leo could explore at their own pace, although we did have to be careful as there are few fences and the odd rotten wooden board on the pathways. Climbing into the horse was a highlight, as were clambering over rocks and finding a stream full of frogs. It was definitely worth going in the morning; as we had our lunch, we watched about 15 tour buses roll into the car park. Without the solitude it wouldn't have been nearly as rewarding a visit.
After our return, and another trip to the playground including a bounce on the nearby trampolines, we watched the sun set over the Gallipoli Peninsula while eating dinner on the waterfront and packed up for the following day's 4.5 hour bus journey to Bergama.
Friday, 5 October 2012
2012 10 Istanbul, Turkey
2012 10 Istanbul, Turkey, a set on Flickr.
Click on the link to see 116 photos (yes we know, it is a photogenic place!) from our time in Istanbul, Turkey.Thursday, 4 October 2012
Istanbul part two: carpet shopping, a haircut and other things
A rug is the one 'big' souvenir we thought we would buy in Turkey. As I was the most interested family member, Adrian tasked me with finding out what makes a good rug and research prices. It was also my job to do the actual purchasing. While doing my research a man in one shop told me I have a nice smile and look clean. Clean? After six weeks travelling, I took it as a compliment!
Many of you will know that I am not the world's most accomplished bargain hunter and price-negotiating does not come naturally. So, off I set with a rug we liked in mind and a plan. The end result was that, while I managed to buy the rug for less than the original price, I offered at our agreed maximum within about three minutes of starting the discussion with the men in the shop beginning and for no apparent reason. It must have been one of the easiest deals they did all day. Hmmm. Perhaps best to practice on something cheaper first next time. Still, we have a lovely more-expensive-than-it-could-have-been rug winging it's way to New Zealand. You can all admire it when you visit.
Adrian decided it was time for a haircut, so when I arrived back from my rug-buying expedition still a little stunned, he went off to find a barber. I'll leave him to write about that experience; it was a little more exciting than he expected...
[Adrian: it was all going smoothly until he asked me "Kebab?" whilst waving a cotton bud kinda thing at me. Never shy about a free mixed grill, I said yeah sure why not... He then soaked the bud in lighter fluid and promptly set my ear hairs on fire. I may have looked a touch surprised at seeing my ears on fire in the mirror; he began laughing and danced around the chair waving this burning torch at me ears cackling "Turkish Kebab! Turkish Kebab!" and we both ended up having a great old laugh. No lasting damage and I'd guess it'll be a while before I need it done again... I'm thinking a lifetime!]
Our apartment-owner offered babysitting, so we decided to take him up on it and go out for dinner. The babysitter lives across the road and brought her two children along, so we left them all settling in for an evening of fun. We had a delicious meal, enjoyed a night-time walk past the Blue Mosque and two or three hours on our own.
A couple of things we learned in Istanbul: check your restaurant bill, especially in touristy areas (we thought each of our meals was a lira or two more expensive than listed on the menu and the waiter was suspiciously quick to correct his 'mistake' when questioned); and it is probably a good idea to stay away from the tap water. Apparently it is okay, but lots of people (including locals) prefer bottled water. We had bottles, but out of habit I topped up my glass from the tap one night and have had a mildly unsettled stomach for the last three days. Nothing serious, but unpleasant all the same and I was very pleased to be staying put for a day or two afterwards!
Istanbul has playground everywhere, mist of which seem to have curly slides, much to Eleanor and Leo's delight. While we had a busy time sight-seeing we did manage to squeeze in a long visit to the nearest playground to our apartment.
The situation between Syria and Turkey is huge news here as you'd imagine. Things just seem to be getting worse in Syria, which is awful. As for us, there is no danger, we are a long way from the Syrian border and are not aware of it on a day-to-day basis at all.
Today was our first properly early start, a 4.50am(!) alarm so we could be at the docks for our ferry and bus trip to Canakkale.
Many of you will know that I am not the world's most accomplished bargain hunter and price-negotiating does not come naturally. So, off I set with a rug we liked in mind and a plan. The end result was that, while I managed to buy the rug for less than the original price, I offered at our agreed maximum within about three minutes of starting the discussion with the men in the shop beginning and for no apparent reason. It must have been one of the easiest deals they did all day. Hmmm. Perhaps best to practice on something cheaper first next time. Still, we have a lovely more-expensive-than-it-could-have-been rug winging it's way to New Zealand. You can all admire it when you visit.
Adrian decided it was time for a haircut, so when I arrived back from my rug-buying expedition still a little stunned, he went off to find a barber. I'll leave him to write about that experience; it was a little more exciting than he expected...
[Adrian: it was all going smoothly until he asked me "Kebab?" whilst waving a cotton bud kinda thing at me. Never shy about a free mixed grill, I said yeah sure why not... He then soaked the bud in lighter fluid and promptly set my ear hairs on fire. I may have looked a touch surprised at seeing my ears on fire in the mirror; he began laughing and danced around the chair waving this burning torch at me ears cackling "Turkish Kebab! Turkish Kebab!" and we both ended up having a great old laugh. No lasting damage and I'd guess it'll be a while before I need it done again... I'm thinking a lifetime!]
Our apartment-owner offered babysitting, so we decided to take him up on it and go out for dinner. The babysitter lives across the road and brought her two children along, so we left them all settling in for an evening of fun. We had a delicious meal, enjoyed a night-time walk past the Blue Mosque and two or three hours on our own.
A couple of things we learned in Istanbul: check your restaurant bill, especially in touristy areas (we thought each of our meals was a lira or two more expensive than listed on the menu and the waiter was suspiciously quick to correct his 'mistake' when questioned); and it is probably a good idea to stay away from the tap water. Apparently it is okay, but lots of people (including locals) prefer bottled water. We had bottles, but out of habit I topped up my glass from the tap one night and have had a mildly unsettled stomach for the last three days. Nothing serious, but unpleasant all the same and I was very pleased to be staying put for a day or two afterwards!
Istanbul has playground everywhere, mist of which seem to have curly slides, much to Eleanor and Leo's delight. While we had a busy time sight-seeing we did manage to squeeze in a long visit to the nearest playground to our apartment.
The situation between Syria and Turkey is huge news here as you'd imagine. Things just seem to be getting worse in Syria, which is awful. As for us, there is no danger, we are a long way from the Syrian border and are not aware of it on a day-to-day basis at all.
Today was our first properly early start, a 4.50am(!) alarm so we could be at the docks for our ferry and bus trip to Canakkale.
Istanbul part one: the sights
We had five nights in Istanbul, our longest stop of the trip so far. This meant we could unpack a little (i.e. allow the contents of our bags to explode all over the apartment). It also means a long blog post I'm afraid, but we've broken it into two parts so you can take a break in between.
With four days we managed to scratch the surface of what there is to see in Istanbul. Just. To allow for naps, playground stops and breaks to relax over a coffee/colouring book we try not to pack too much into each day, so we had to short list what we wanted to see. The sight-seeing highlights for us were Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace, all of which are just off the Hippodrome.
Aya Sofya was constructed in 537 and is an incredible church that is now a museum. It makes a huge impact in 2012, so it is hard to imagine what people seeing it almost 1500 years ago must have thought. Inside is a huge open space, in which young children can (and did!) have lots of fun while their parents admire the dome and intricate mosaics.
The Blue Mosque, which was built in the early 1600s to rival Aya Sofya (while these competitions seem a bit blokey, they leave us with some amazing places to visit!), has a huge prayer space and courtyard. The interior is beautiful with all the blue tiles, but the exterior is something else entirely. We looked at it from several different perspectives during the day as well as at night and concluded that it is one of the most elegant buildings we have ever seen.
The Basilica Cistern, is a firm favourite for all of us. Eleanor and Leo had loads of fun fish-spotting in the cistern's shallow pools and we were fascinated by the carved stone Medusa heads at the bottom of two columns, one is tilted sideways and the other upside down. Apparently no one knows exactly why they are there or why they are placed at such unusual angles, which makes it all the more interesting.
The Topkapi Palace was home to Sultans for about 400 years and is made up of a number of buildings around four courtyards. It must have been a haven amongst the hustle and bustle of the city, and still is! We had a look at the Treasury... the Sultans liked their bling; most of the treasures involve gold decorated with large emeralds, rubies and/or diamonds. Our favourites are the Topkapi Dagger with three huge emeralds on its hilt and the sparkly Spoonmakers Diamond.
The harem is a beautifully tiled area within the Palace. It was the living quarters of the Sultans' wives (they were allowed up to four), concubines (as many as they could support, with some busy Sultans having 300, although not all at the same time), their children as well as the eunuchs who looked after them. Quite a crowd!
The Hippodrome also dates from Byzantine times; the chariot races would have been the sporting event to see. It is now a paved road with the chariot track clearly visible once you realise what you are looking at (we took our time!). In the past, the centre of the hippodrome was decorated with many statues (more blokey competitions!) most of which are gone now, although there are three columns and a fountain remaining. One of these is an Egyptian obelisk carved in the 1500s BC and brought to Turkey about 2000 years later. Wow!
We thought it would be fun to take a boat trip on the Bosphorus, where Europe meets Asia. It was interesting enough to see Istanbul from the massive strait, but not overly exciting.
We also visited three bazaars; the Spice Bazaar (mostly food), the Grand Bazaar (anything and everything in a lovely old building) and the Arasta Bazaar (arts and crafts). We liked the Arasta Bazaar most and could have bought a quite few souvenirs if we had space in our bags. There are some beautiful ceramics, coloured glass light fittings and of course carpets. More on rug shopping in part two.
With four days we managed to scratch the surface of what there is to see in Istanbul. Just. To allow for naps, playground stops and breaks to relax over a coffee/colouring book we try not to pack too much into each day, so we had to short list what we wanted to see. The sight-seeing highlights for us were Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace, all of which are just off the Hippodrome.
Aya Sofya was constructed in 537 and is an incredible church that is now a museum. It makes a huge impact in 2012, so it is hard to imagine what people seeing it almost 1500 years ago must have thought. Inside is a huge open space, in which young children can (and did!) have lots of fun while their parents admire the dome and intricate mosaics.
The Blue Mosque, which was built in the early 1600s to rival Aya Sofya (while these competitions seem a bit blokey, they leave us with some amazing places to visit!), has a huge prayer space and courtyard. The interior is beautiful with all the blue tiles, but the exterior is something else entirely. We looked at it from several different perspectives during the day as well as at night and concluded that it is one of the most elegant buildings we have ever seen.
The Basilica Cistern, is a firm favourite for all of us. Eleanor and Leo had loads of fun fish-spotting in the cistern's shallow pools and we were fascinated by the carved stone Medusa heads at the bottom of two columns, one is tilted sideways and the other upside down. Apparently no one knows exactly why they are there or why they are placed at such unusual angles, which makes it all the more interesting.
The Topkapi Palace was home to Sultans for about 400 years and is made up of a number of buildings around four courtyards. It must have been a haven amongst the hustle and bustle of the city, and still is! We had a look at the Treasury... the Sultans liked their bling; most of the treasures involve gold decorated with large emeralds, rubies and/or diamonds. Our favourites are the Topkapi Dagger with three huge emeralds on its hilt and the sparkly Spoonmakers Diamond.
The harem is a beautifully tiled area within the Palace. It was the living quarters of the Sultans' wives (they were allowed up to four), concubines (as many as they could support, with some busy Sultans having 300, although not all at the same time), their children as well as the eunuchs who looked after them. Quite a crowd!
The Hippodrome also dates from Byzantine times; the chariot races would have been the sporting event to see. It is now a paved road with the chariot track clearly visible once you realise what you are looking at (we took our time!). In the past, the centre of the hippodrome was decorated with many statues (more blokey competitions!) most of which are gone now, although there are three columns and a fountain remaining. One of these is an Egyptian obelisk carved in the 1500s BC and brought to Turkey about 2000 years later. Wow!
We thought it would be fun to take a boat trip on the Bosphorus, where Europe meets Asia. It was interesting enough to see Istanbul from the massive strait, but not overly exciting.
We also visited three bazaars; the Spice Bazaar (mostly food), the Grand Bazaar (anything and everything in a lovely old building) and the Arasta Bazaar (arts and crafts). We liked the Arasta Bazaar most and could have bought a quite few souvenirs if we had space in our bags. There are some beautiful ceramics, coloured glass light fittings and of course carpets. More on rug shopping in part two.
Monday, 1 October 2012
2012 09 29 Belgrade, Serbia
2012 09 29 Belgrade, Serbia, a set on Flickr.
Photos from our brief visit to Belgrade, Serbia.
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